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A Bench Rabbet Plane is very handy for
workinglarge rabbets and tenons, while also doubling as a Jack Plane.
The Lie-Nielsen Bench Rabbet Plane is based on the Stanley Bedrock-type
planes. Bedrocks were Stanley’s top line of Bench Planes,
heavier and better made than the standard. In addition, the
construction of the frog is unique — it features a fully
machined fit between frog and body, adjustable from the rear without
having to remove the blade and cap.This allows you to easily change the
mouth setting from a coarse to a fine cut for difficult woods or fine
smoothing passes. For heavy cuts, adjust the frog back so the blade
rests directly on the plane body.
Geometry:
All Bench Plane blades are bedded at 45° with the bevel down.
Blade Sharpening:
Your Lie-Nielsen Bench Plane is ready to cut wood out of the
box. The blade is ground sharp at a 25° bevel. A
seconary bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge
quickly. This also improves edge life in hardwoods.
For more information on advanced sharpening we suggest David
Charlesworth’s DVD Hand
Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane
Sharpening.
Mouth Adjustment:
To adjust the mouth opening, loosen the two locking screws at the back
of the frog. Then turn the middle adjusting screw. Observe the opening
in front of the blade. When it is correct, set the locking screws again.
Improved Chipbreaker:
Our Improved Chipbreaker is 1/8" thick. The raised lip underthe bevel
of the chip-breaker is back beveled 1° to ensure that the
leading edge contacts the blade firmly. You should never need to dress
this surface, but if you do, use a very fine stone and be sure to
maintain the angle. The 25° bevel may be honed occasionally.
For general work, set the end of the chipbreaker about 1/16" from the
cutting edge of the blade; for the finest smoothing work, set
it closer to the edge.
Blade Adjustment:
Removing and re-installing the blade can be tricky. The easiest method
is to remove the cap screw first. To advance the blade, turn the
adjuster screw clockwise. It is always a good idea to finish adjusting
the blade with a forward adjustment to take up backlash and prevent the
blade from moving. In order to be able to adjust the blade easily, do
not overtighten the lever cap screw.
The blade is about .005" wider than the body. Align the edge of the
blade with the side of the body that you want it flush with (laying the
tool on its side helps to do this quickly and accurately) or grind a
little off the side of the blade to make it flush with both sides if
you want.
Nickers:
Nickers cut cross grain fibers first to give a clean shoulder when
rabbeting across the grain. Adjust the nicker so it is a little deeper
than your depth of cut. Retract the nicker when it is not needed. The
nicker screw thread is 8-32.
Tilting Handles:
Loosen the nut on top of the knob and handle to tilt to one side or the
other. Tighten, but do not overtighten, nuts. Lubricate the pivot bar
occasionally.
Materials:
The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take
a lot of abuse.These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that
removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat
and true. The cap and frog are Manganese Bronze. The blade is A-2
cryogenically treated Tool Steel, tempered to Rockwell 60-62. Our heat
treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very
fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is fully
surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth,
flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The .125"
thick blade provides solid chatter-free cutting.
Maintenance:
The bodies are surface ground flat and square to a tolerance of .0015".
Depending on how much use your tool gets, an occasional light sanding
with 320 grit or finer wet/dry paper on a flat surface will keep the
sole in as-new condition. Tools with Iron bodies should be kept lightly
oiled or waxed to prevent rust. A light oiling on the threaded rod and
Brass adjuster and the lateral adjustment lever will keep them moving
freely. We recommend Camellia Oil, a vegetable oil based product. It is
non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine
abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies
and blades. Camellia Oil and the abrasive handblock are available from
us.
Many people like the patina that Bronze gets with age and use, but if
you wish to keep the finish bright, a little brass polish is in order.
Cherry knob and handle are finished with wiping varnish and should
require no maintenance.
Guarantee:
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool.
Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if
you ever have a problem using your tool.
Proposition 65 Notice: Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
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