Bench Planes
Bench
Planes
Lie-Nielsen Bench Planes (except for the No. 1) are based on the
Stanley Bedrock-type planes. Bedrocks were Stanley’s top line
of Bench Planes, heavier and better made than the standard. In
addition, the construction of the
frog is unique — it features a fully machined fit between
frog and body, adjustable from the rear without having to remove the
blade and cap. This allows you to easily change the mouth setting from
a coarse to fine cut for difficult woods or fine smoothing passes.
Geometry:
All Bench Plane blades are bedded at 45° with the bevel down.
Blade Sharpening:
Your Lie-Nielsen Bench Plane is ready to cut wood out of the box. The
blade is ground sharp at a 25° bevel. A secondary bevel of up
to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge quickly. This also
improves edge life in hardwoods. For more information on
advanced sharpening we suggest David Charlesworth’s DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part 1:
Plane Sharpening.
Mouth Adjustment:
To adjust the mouth opening, loosen the two locking screws at the back
of the frog; then turn the middle adjuster screw. Observe the opening
in front of the blade. When it is correct, set the locking screws again.
Improved Chipbreaker:
Our Improved Chipbreaker is 1/8" thick. The raised lip under the bevel
of the chip-breaker is back beveled 1° to ensure that the
leading edge contacts the blade firmly. You should never need to dress
this surface, but if you do, use a very fine stone and be sure to
maintain the angle. The 25° bevel may be honed occasionally.
For general work, set the end of the chipbreaker about 1/16" from the
cutting edge of the blade; for the finest smoothing work, set
it closer to the edge.
Blade Adjustment:
To advance the blade, turn the adjuster nut clockwise. It is
always a good idea to finish adjusting the blade by a forward
adjustment to take up backlash and to prevent the blade from
moving. In order to be able to adjust the blade easily, do
not overtighten the lever cap screw.
Materials:
Iron tools are cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will
take a lot of abuse. We use Manganese Bronze for the Bronze bodies.
These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that removes
inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true.
The blade is A-2 cryogenically treated Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell
60-62 and double tempered. Our heat treating technique ensures that the
blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat
treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and
cutting edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror
finish very quickly. The thick blade provides solid chatter-free
cutting. The cap is Manganese Bronze.Maintenance: The soles of Iron
planes are surface ground flat and square; the Bronze planes are lapped
to a tolerance of .0015". Depending on how much use your tool gets, an
occasional light sanding with 320 grit or finer wet/dry paper on a flat
surface will keep the sole in as-new condition. Tools with Iron bodies
should be kept lightly oiled or waxed to prevent rust. We recommend
Camellia Oil, a vegetable oil based product. It is non-toxic, odor-free
and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to
remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. Camellia
Oil and abrasive handblocks are available from us.
A light oiling on the threaded rod, the Brass adjuster nut and the
lateral
blade adjustment lever will keep them moving freely. Many
people like the
patina that Bronze gets with age and use, but if you wish to keep the
finish bright, a little brass polish is in order. The Cherry knob and
handle are finished with wiping varnish and should require no
maintenance.
Guarantee:
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool.
Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if
you ever have a problem using your tool.
Proposition 65 Notice: Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
|
