Producing square mortises is exacting work. The corner chisel, used after the mortise has been roughed out by hand or with a slot mortiser- which produces round edged mortises- helps square corners easily and precisely.
Made from O-1 Tool Steel. The cutting edge is hardened to Rc 60-62 and ground razor sharp.
Hornbeam handles. Blade length 5-3/4", overall length is 9-5/8".
Click here to view our YouTube video on Quick Tips: Sharpening the Fishtail and Corner Chisels.
Our Corner Chisel is a modern design based on the larger,
more traditional corner chisel or “bruzz,” used extensively
in timber framing and other large work. It is a paring tool,
useful for trimming mortises and other cuts precisely square.
It should not be used to cut directly into solid stock.
Our chisels are ground on four sides, square and
parallel. The bevel is flat ground at 25º; additional honing is
recommended. On very hard woods, like oak, hard maple or
exotic species, take lighter cuts and use a higher secondary
Lie-Nielsen Chisels have Maine-harvested
Hornbeam handles. Hornbeam, also known as Ironwood,
was once prized for its toughness, but usually winds up
as firewood these days. This under-utilized species makes
superb chisel handles.
When your Chisel arrives, the handle
may be loose because of wood shrinkage. It may also loosen
during dry weather. The handles are held in place by the
wedging of the wood into the tapered socket. Just rap the
chisel handle upside down to re-seat the handle. Although
I’ve had chisel sets in my shop for years without the handles
coming loose, some people have the opposite experience.
One solution to a loose handle is to apply hair spray to the
tapered section and re-seat as described. Strange as it may
sound, it’s effective - and unlike glue, it’s reversible.
One of the advantages of the socket
design is that if you want to change handles, you can simply
tap the side of the handle on a board and pop the handle off.
Materials: Our corner chisels are made of O-1 Tool Steel,
hardened to Rockwell 60-62. The O-1 Steel will hold an
edge very well, and should be kept very sharp for best
performance. Do not force the tool, especially when dull. Do
not strike with a steel hammer.
To sharpen, use a small slipstone with a sharp,
square edge of fine India or finer. Slipstones may be trued and
squared on 150-grit wet/dry paper or on a glass plate, using
medium value grinding compound if necessary.
Regrinding is most easily accomplished with a small trued
abrasive wheel chucked in a Dremel-type flexible shaft tool.
However, a coarse slipstone — with a square, sharp edge
— will usually be enough.
Tool Steel can rust. To protect your chisels,
you should oil, wax and/or wrap the tools after use. At
the least, wipe your fingerprints off with an oily rag. We
recommend Camellia or Jojoba Oil - vegetable oil based
products. They are non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also,
in our shop, we use a fine abrasive hand-block to remove
any light surface oxide from tools. The oils and the abrasive
handblock are available from us.
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for
the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We
are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your