No. 10-1/4 Bench Rabbet Plane
Also known as a Carriage Maker’s or Jack Rabbet Plane, this is the largest rabbet plane made. Based on the Stanley 10¼, which went out of production in the mid-1940s, we modified the design to fit the Bedrock format. Adjustable side nickers make clean, cross-grain cuts. Both handle and knob can tilt left or right to give better access and control in tight corners.
- 12-3/4" long.
- Blade is 2-1/8" wide x .130" thick.
- Iron body only, 5 lbs.
Bench Rabbet Plane
A Bench Rabbet Plane is very handy for working large rabbets and
tenons, while also doubling as a Jack Plane.
The Lie-Nielsen Bench Rabbet Plane is based on the Stanley
Bedrock-type planes. Bedrocks were Stanley’s top line of Bench Planes,
heavier and better made than the standard. In addition, the construction
of the frog is unique — it features a fully machined fit between frog and
body, adjustable from the rear without having to remove the blade and
cap. This allows you to easily change the mouth setting from a coarse to
a fine cut for difficult woods or fine smoothing passes. For heavy cuts,
adjust the frog back so the blade rests directly on the plane body.
All Bench Plane blades are bedded at 45° with the bevel
Your Lie-Nielsen Bench Plane is ready to cut wood
out of the box. The blade is ground sharp at a 25° bevel. A secondary
bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieve a razor edge quickly. This also
improves edge life in hardwoods. For more information on advanced
sharpening we suggest David Charlesworth’s DVD Hand Tool
Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening.
To adjust the mouth opening, loosen the two locking
screws at the back of the frog. Then turn the middle adjusting screw.
Observe the opening in front of the blade. When it is correct, set the
locking screws again.
Removing and re-installing the blade can be tricky.
The easiest method is to remove the cap screw first. To advance the
blade, turn the adjuster screw clockwise. It is always a good idea to
finish adjusting the blade with a forward adjustment to take up backlash
and prevent the blade from moving. In order to be able to adjust the
blade easily, do not overtighten the lever cap screw.
The blade is about .005" wider than the body. Align the edge of the blade
with the side of the body that you want it flush with (laying the tool on
its side helps to do this quickly and accurately) or grind a little off the
side of the blade to make it flush with both sides if you want.
Nickers cut cross grain fibers first to give a clean shoulder
when rabbeting across the grain. Adjust the nicker so it is a little deeper
than your depth of cut. Retract the nicker when it is not needed. The
nicker screw thread is 8-32.
Loosen the nut on top of the knob and handle to tilt to
one side or the other. Tighten, but do not overtighten, nuts. Lubricate
the pivot bar occasionally.
The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that
will take a lot of abuse.
These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that removes inherent
stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. The cap and
frog are Manganese Bronze. The blade is A-2 cryogenically treated Tool
Steel, tempered to Rockwell 60-62. Our heat treating technique ensures
that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After
heat treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting
edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror finish very
quickly. The .125" thick blade provides solid chatter-free cutting.
The bodies are surface ground flat and square to a tolerance
of .0015". Depending on how much use your tool gets, an occasional
light sanding with 320 grit or finer wet/dry paper on a flat surface
will keep the sole in as-new condition. Tools with Iron bodies should be
kept lightly oiled or waxed to prevent rust. A light oiling on the threaded
rod and Brass adjuster and the lateral adjustment lever will keep them
moving freely. We recommend Jojoba Oil, a vegetable oil based
product. It is non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we
use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from
tool bodies and blades. Jojoba Oil and the abrasive handblock are
available from us.
Many people like the patina that Bronze gets with age and use, but if
you wish to keep the finish bright, a little brass polish is in order. Cherry
knob and handle are finished with wiping varnish and should require no
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your tool.
Proposition 65 Notice:
Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.