A Tenon Saw is a large backsaw used for making accurate deep cuts in furniture joinery. It should cut straight and fast, and the blade should not bind in the cut. Filed crosscut, this saw can be used for cross grain work like tenon shoulders, housing dadoes and sliding dovetails, or precise cut-off with a small miter box.
Our Tenon Saws are based on Disston models. Classic Curly Maple handles, stout 3/4" x 1/4" milled brass back, Brass fittings, .032" thick Swedish Tool Steel blade. The set on the teeth is .004" per side. They are solid, well balanced and smooth cutting.
This 14" saw has a 3-5/8" depth of cut and an overall length of 19-1/4". Usable blade dimensions are 14" long x 3-5/8" deep. Filed crosscut to 13 Ppi.
Your saw is very sharp when it arrives. When starting a cut, hold the saw blade so it is flush with the top of the stock. It is not necessary to tilt your saw at an angle when cutting. Best performance is obtained by sawing slowly and evenly with very little downward pressure, using as much of the blade as possible. Your saw will track right to the line. Be aware, however, that due to the slight set, your saw will be hard to correct if it starts to cut away from the line. If that happens, it’s because you didn’t line it up properly when you started.
Practice on some scrap wood to acquaint yourself with how your saw cuts. If you had a poor sawing technique before, your new saw will force you to learn the proper sawing technique. Don’t worry — once learned, it’ll be smooth cutting. If your saw seems to “grab” the wood and jump around in the kerf, you’re using too much downward pressure. Ease up a bit and take long slow strokes.
Take a couple of pieces of thin, straight scrap and clamp them in your vise on either side of the blade so that the top of the scrap is flush with the bottom of the gullets on the teeth. Take your file and take one swipe per tooth. Notice the small groove the file leaves in the wood. This is a good gauge to show you how deep you're filing. The teeth are so fine on your saw that no more than one pass per gullet should be necessary. If you use this method consistently, you shouldn't ever have to joint your saw. Of course, Dovetail Saw teeth are sharpened to a rip profile, so you can file all the teeth on the Dovetail Saw from the same side.
You can use a Stanley 42X saw set on our saws. The Stanley set may vary from ours, so experiment on a small area before you do the whole saw. Your saw blade should measure only .024 - .027" when properly set. The slight set is what makes the saw cut and track so well. If done improperly, you'll notice a drastic decrease in performance. You should only have to reset your blade after every other sharpening, not every time. The ultimate test of any setting job is how well the saw cuts. Take some scrap and start a cut. The saw should glide through the wood without jumping around in its kerf. It should not be hard to push, nor should it be roomy in the kerf. If either of these conditions exists, increase or decrease the set accordingly. If the saw tracks away from the line, the side on the saw that is furthest from the line has too much set. A simple remedy is to lightly stone the edge of the offending side with a medium India slip stone. Take one swipe with the stone, and try another cut. Usually only one or two passes with the stone will correct the problem. Don't remove too much, however, or you will have the same problem on the other side until not enough set is left to make a cut. Once you have determined by trial and error that you have just enough set on that particular saw, make a note of where your saw set is adjusted for future reference. You may also send your saw back to us for sharpening.