A powerful tool for heavy stock removal, the No. 7½ Low Angle Jointer combines the length of a jointer with the simplicity and flexibility of a block plane. The low-angle and long base make it ideal for shooting joints and fittings as well as for trueing large surfaces.
It has the same dimensions as our No. 7 Jointer but with the blade mounted bevel up at 12°. The mouth opening is adjusted with two thumb screws.
Our Low Angle Jointer is the largest Low Angle Block Plane ever produced. It is as big as a No. 7, but with a much simpler design that is quick and easy to set up, and is excellent for a wide variety of work.
The blade sits in the body bevel up at 12°. It comes with a 25° flat ground bevel, making the included cutting angle 37°. Blade Sharpening: The blade comes ready to use. Slight additional honing will increase performance. A secondary bevel of up to 5 degrees helps achieves a razor edge quickly. This also improves edge life in hardwoods. For more information on advanced sharpening we suggest David Charlesworth’s DVD Hand Tool Techniques Part 1: Plane Sharpening.
Blade adjustment is simple, direct and positive. Hold the tool in one hand with your thumb on the cap. Loosen the cap iron thumbscrew all the way, then tighten slightly until there is a little resistance. Adjust depth of cut with the stainless steel nut. Sight down the base of the tool from the front, and judge depth and squareness of the blade by the thin dark line of the blade showing against the sole as it protrudes. When you are done, snug the cap thumbscrew. Do not over tighten.
The Low Angle Jointer intentionally has very little lateral adjustment of the blade. This is an advantage. As you adjust the blade, it will track squarely with the sole. The disadvantage is that you must sharpen the blade square. Today there are many good jigs on the market that make this easy to do. If you find that you don’t like this feature, you can grind the blade narrower to give more lateral play.
To adjust the mouth, loosen the two Brass thumbscrews and slide the shoe carefully to desired position. Be careful not to hit the sharp edge of the blade when tightening the mouth.
The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse. These castings are fully stress-relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. The cap is Manganese Bronze. Other parts are Brass and Steel and Cherry. The blade is ¼" A-2 cryogenically treated tool steel, double tempered to Rockwell 60-62. Our heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The thick blade provides solid, chatter-free cutting.
The sole is ground flat to .0015" or less. Occasional hand lapping with fine wet/dry sandpaper (320 grit or higher) on a flat surface like a glass plate, will help remove dings and keep it true. The cap iron can be polished with any good brass polish, or allowed to patina with age and use Occasionally, the tool should be disassembled, cleaned, and moving parts oiled. The blade should be kept lightly oiled to prevent rust, especially when tool is not in use. We recommend Camellia or Jojoba Oil - vegetable oil based products. They are non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. The oils and the abrasive handblock are available from us
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your tool.
Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.