Small Scraping Plane
This unusual plane is based on the now scarce Stanley No. 212, which was discontinued in 1934 and brings high prices from today’s collectors. We are pleased to make it available for woodworkers once again.
The almost perpendicular blade makes it ideal for small scraping jobs, producing shavings like the finest lace and leaving smooth surfaces with crisp edges. The blade angle can be adjusted from 75° to 100°, enabling it to be set up just right for the particular wood being worked.
It is a favorite among fly rod makers for thicknessing bamboo fly rod sections. We offer an optional Fly Rod Maker’s Groove, ground 1" wide x .003" deep into the sole of the plane, making it the perfect companion tool to a rod maker's form.
- 5-1/2" long x 1-3/4" wide.
- Blade is 1-3/8" wide x 1/8" thick.
- Bronze body, 1.60 lbs.
Optional Fly Rod Makers Groove
The Bronze Small Scraper Plane is available with the optional Rod Maker's Groove for an additional charge. This groove is ground 1" (2.54cm) wide and .003" (.076mm) deep into the sole of the plane, making it the perfect companion tool to a rod maker's form. Also available for the Adjustable Mouth Block Planes.
Small Scraping Planes
The Lie-Nielsen Small Scraping Plane is based on the Stanley
#212, which was discontinued in 1934. The original has become
increasingly hard to find and expensive, but it is the perfect tool to use
for many small scraping jobs. We are pleased to make it available for
woodworkers once again.
Our Scraping Plane comes with a much thicker
blade than the original. This allows the blade to be prepared somewhat
differently than other scrapers. We recommend that you hone the blade
to a sharp edge like a plane blade and do not use a burr (at least until
you get used to using the tool). We have found that our thick scraper
blades sharpen easily and produce a better surface with a 45° bevel on
the blade. Slightly round the corners of the blade with a stone to prevent
them from marking the work.
If you wish to create a burr, hone the blade, and then
clamp it upright in a vise. Using a burnisher, begin by holding the
burnisher at about 45° to the blade, working up to 75°. Work the edge
until you can feel a distinct ‘hook’ all the way across. Be very careful
not to cut yourself on the upright blade. Use of a burr will give more
aggressive cutting action, and depending on how consistent you
are, turning the burr will require adjustment of the blade angle after
sharpening to work best.
Setting the Blade:
The blade is inserted with the bevel facing the knob.
To set the depth of cut, lay the sole of the tool on a flat surface and
loosen the thumbscrew. Press lightly on the top of the blade with your
thumb and re-tighten the thumbscrew. Do not over tighten. Usually,
this will be enough exposure for a fine shaving. If not, repeat with a slip
of paper under the front of the tool. Minor depth adjustments may also
be made quickly by lightly tapping the top of the blade with a burnisher
or light hammer while the tool is resting on a flat board.
Adjusting Blade Angle:
The blade angle should be set about
15° forward of vertical. Try adjusting the angle to find optimum
performance in various woods. One way to get it close is to take some
test passes holding the blade by hand, varying the angle until it cuts
best, then hold the blade at that angle against the side of the plane
and adjust the frog to match. The beveled faces of the nuts fit into the
countersink on the hole in the post to provide a solid lock.
Use: Normally, one pushes the Scraping Plane from the rear with the
knob in the palm. The blade is inserted with a bevel facing the knob.
It is best to use a light touch, rather than trying to remove too much
material at once, or using too much downward pressure. Too aggressive
a cut, including too much downward pressure, will result in chatter. You
should be taking light strokes. Often it is helpful to scrape at an angle to
the grain, then again from the opposite angle. David Charlesworth has
a good discussion on the use of scrapers in his book Furniture Making
Techniques, Vol. II.
We offer replacement blades, as well as toothed
blades, of 18 and 25 teeth per inch. Toothed blades are useful, when
working extremely difficult woods, to score fibers in a criss-cross
pattern before using the regular blade. They are also used to prepare
surfaces for gluing, as in veneering, by lightly roughening the surface.
Iron tools are cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy
that will take a lot of abuse. We use Manganese Bronze for the Bronze
bodies. These castings are fully stress relieved, a process that removes
inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true.
The blade is double tempered A-2 Tool Steel, hardened to Rockwell
50-55. Our heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and
hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is
fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth,
flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The 1/8" thickness
provides solid chatter-free cutting.
The soles of Iron bodies are surface ground flat and
square; the Bronze are hand lapped, to a tolerance of .0015". Depending
how much use your tool gets, an occasional light sanding with 320
or finer wet/dry paper on a flat surface will keep the sole in as-new
condition. Tools with Iron bodies should be kept lightly oiled or waxed to prevent rust. A light oiling on the threaded rod and Brass adjuster will
keep them moving freely. Many people like the patina that Bronze gets
with age and use, but if you wish to keep the finish bright, a little brass
polish is in order. The blade should be kept lightly oiled to prevent rust,
especially when the tool is not in use.
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your tool.
Proposition 65 Notice:
Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.