Note: Due to constraints related to the COVID-19 pandemic, the No. 112 Large Scraping Plane is temporarily out of production and unavailable until further notice.
An excellent tool for putting the final finish on large surfaces, especially when using woods that are difficult to finish with a Smoothing Plane. Our Large Scraping Plane is based on the Stanley No. 112, which was in production from 1885 to 1944. The blade, beveled at 45°, can be precisely adjusted to take the finest of shavings. The sole is ground dead flat.
Click here to download a PDF copy of the instructions for this tool.
The Lie-Nielsen Large Scraping Plane is based on the Stanley #112, which was made by Stanley from 1885 until it was discontinued in 1944. This is an excellent tool for putting the final finish on large flat surfaces, especially when you are using woods that are difficult to finish with a Smoothing Plane. Scraping — whether with a Cabinet Scraper or a Scraping Plane — gives great results. The plane format gives a comfortable handle and knob to grip. Scrapers, however, take some practice to master.
Our Scraping Plane comes with a much thicker blade than the original. This allows the blade to be prepared differently than other scrapers. We have found that our Scraping Plane blades sharpen easily and produce a better surface with a 45° bevel, honed to a sharp edge like a plane blade. Honing a secondary bevel of 5° will help achieve a razor edge quickly. We do not recommend using a burr, at least until you get used to using the tool. Slightly rounding the corners of the blade with a stone will prevent them from marking the work.
Note: In order to sharpen the No. 112 blade in our Honing Guide, the Brass thumbscrew needs to be removed. The thumbscrew is reverse threaded, and held with non-permanent Loctite. To remove, insert one screwdriver into the thumbscrew and a second into the end of the threaded rod, then turn clock-wise. If needed, heat may used to help break the Loctite bond.
If you wish to create a burr, hone the blade, then hold upright in a vise. Using a burnisher, begin by holding the burnisher at about 45° to the blade, working up to 75°. Work the edge until you can feel a distinct ‘hook’ all the way across. Be very careful not to cut yourself on the upright blade. Use of a burr will give more aggressive cutting action, and depending on how consistent you are, turning the burr will require adjustment of the blade angle after sharpening to work best.
The blade angle should be set about 15° forward of vertical. Try adjusting the angle to find optimum performance in various woods. One way to get it close is to take some test passes holding the blade by hand, varying the angle until it cuts best, then hold the blade at that angle against the side of the plane and adjust the frog to match. The beveled faces of the nuts fit into the countersink on the hole in the post to provide a solid lock.
The blade is inserted with the bevel facing the handle. To set the depth of cut, lay the sole of the tool on a flat surface and loosen the thumbscrew. Press lightly on the top of the blade with your thumb and re-tighten the thumbscrew. Do not over tighten. Usually this will be enough exposure for a fine shaving. If not, repeat with a slip of paper under the front of the tool. Minor depth adjustments may also be made quickly by lightly tapping the top of the blade with a burnisher or light hammer while the tool is resting on a flat board.
It is best to use a light touch, rather than trying to remove too much material at once, or using too much downward pressure. Too aggressive a cut (blades set too deep) or too much downward pressure will result in chatter. You should be taking light strokes. Often it is helpful to scrape at an angle to the grain, then again from the opposite angle.
We offer toothed blades of 18 and 25 teeth per inch, useful when working extremely difficult woods, by scoring fibers in a criss-cross pattern before using the regular blade. They are also used to prepare surfaces for gluing, as in veneering, by lightly roughening the surface.
The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse. These castings are fully stress-relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. The cap and frog are Manganese Bronze. Other parts are Brass and Steel.
The blade is A2 Tool Steel hardened to Rockwell 60-62, cryogenically treated and double tempered. Our heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time. After heat treating, the blade is fully surface ground on the top, back, and cutting edge, giving a smooth, flat surface that will take a mirror finish very quickly. The thick blade provides solid chatter-free cutting.
The body casting is ground dead flat to a tolerance of .0015". Depending on how much use your tool gets, an occasional light sanding with 320 grit or finer wet/dry paper on a flat surface will keep the sole in as-new condition. Tools with Iron bodies should be kept lightly oiled or waxed to prevent rust. We recommend Jojoba Oil, a plant based oil product that is non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. Jojoba Oil and abrasive handblocks are available from us.
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Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your tool.
Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.