Router Planes are essential for any work that requires precise depth cuts, such as mortises, tenons, hinge gains, inlay, door locks, and the like.
Loosely based on the Stanley No. 71, our Large Router Planes feature an improved Brass depth stop and Stainless Steel blade adjuster for precise control of cutting depth. The included fence can be mounted on either side of the blade and flipped around for straight or curved cuts.
We make both Open and Closed throat versions of our Large Router Planes. The Open Throat design offers more visibility in front of the tool, which is especially useful for inlay work. The Closed Throat design gives more support in front of the blade, making it ideal for working on the edges of boards or cleaning out the end of a stopped groove in a rail or stile.
Our Router Planes have square blades, held solidly in square broached holes. This prevents the blade from slipping or twisting when removing large shavings or during diagonal use. The blade can also be mounted to face the back of the plane to work closer into corners.
Our router planes are loosely based on Stanley models, but many revisions of router planes have been made over the years. All derive from the traditional, wood-bodied routers often referred to as the old woman’s tooth.
The blade comes ready to use. Slight additional honing will increase performance.
First, hone the bottom of the blade. Make several passes along a waterstone until a slight burr is formed along the cutting edge.
Then flip the blade over and make a few light passes along the beveled face to remove the burr.
Advance the depth of cut as you work. Loosen the lock screw and advance the blade with the adjuster nut. Take as thick a shaving as you comfortably can.
To cut to a specific depth use the depth stop. Set the blade to the finish depth, set the stop all the way down, tighten the thumbscrew on the stop. Then raise the blade to take your first shaving. Advance the depth of cut until the depth stop prevents you from going deeper. To easily set the blade depth stop, shim the tool on your bench with shims of the desired thickness. Advance the blade until it touches the bench. Lock the stop in the down position.
Tip: To easily set the blade depth stop, shim the tool on your bench with shims of the desired thickness. Advance the blade until it touches the bench and lock the stop in the down position.
Use the fence to guide the tool along an edge- the concave end of the fence is for curved work.
The body is cast from Ductile Iron, a very strong alloy that will take a lot of abuse. These castings are fully stress-relieved, a process that removes inherent stresses and ensures that the tool will remain flat and true. Other parts are Brass, Stainless Steel and Cherry. The blade is O1 tool steel, hardened and tempered to Rockwell 60-62. Our heat treating technique ensures that the blade will take and hold a very fine edge for a long time.
Occasionally, the tool should be disassembled, cleaned, and moving parts oiled. The blade should be kept lightly oiled to prevent rust, especially when tool is not in use. Waxing or oiling the body will help protect it from rust. We recommend Jojoba Oil, a plant based oil product that is non-toxic, odor-free and easy to use. Also, in our shop, we use a fine abrasive handblock to remove any light surface oxide from tool bodies and blades. Jojoba Oil and abrasive handblocks are available from us.
Materials and workmanship are guaranteed for the life of your tool. Call for repairs or replacement parts. We are available for advice if you ever have a problem using your tool.
Bronze and brass alloys contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects, or other reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.